A trishaw parked in Penang. Picture: Supplied
Source: Supplied
FOR years it was known as the Pearl of the Orient. Then Penang lost
its lustre, at least to the outside world as its importance on the
globe's trade routes lessened. But now, thanks to its unique
architecture, fabulous cuisine and heady mix of tourist attractions, the
famed city is bouncing back big time.
Penang's charm is that it effortlessly combines most things you
could possibly want in a holiday, no matter what experience you are
seeking. No wonder its lustre is again burning so brightly.
Penang
is an island in Malaysia's north, not far from the Thailand border. Its
population is diverse in ethnicity, culture, language and religion. And
nowhere is this rich diversity on such display than in Penang's
historical gem, colonial George Town.
Named a UNESCO World
Heritage site in 2007, George Town is officially recognised as having
unique architectural and cultural townscapes without parallel anywhere
in East and South-East Asia.
A fascinating fusion of East and
West, George Town's remarkable heritage is testimony to its more than a
century and a half of British rule, merged with its Malay, Chinese and
Indian traditions.
But don't think for a minute this is some dull, rundown historical museum. It's a thriving, living city.
While
it may have been out of the spotlight for more than a century, the
local population has been getting on with the job. Penang's beauty is
that its history is not preserved behind walls where you have to pay to
appreciate it, it's a pulsating city where the architecture is alive and
the shophouses are still both shops and homes. The moment you step out
of your hotel, you are literally living, breathing and smelling its
unique culture and history.
Where else in the world can you enjoy a
cold beer on a hot day under the veranda of an old Chinese bar while
you watch a multitude ofcolourful trishaws pull into a local garage to
have their tyres pumped or chains serviced by a local mechanic who
obviously has one of the most important jobs on the island.
A Chinese doorway in Penang. Picture: Supplied
Source: Supplied
These three-wheeled human-powered bikes are one of the best ways to
enjoy a pleasant city tour. One can stop at any point to take a
photograph or buy souvenirs. Many trishaw riders are also excellent
''tour guides''. Negotiate the fare first before getting on a trishaw;
it is advisable to hire them by the hour for extended sightseeing. Buses
and taxis are also cheap and plentiful.
Then there is the
food. Even Malaysians acknowledge that the cuisine found in Penang is as
good as it gets. It is known as the food capital of Malaysia. From
Chinese, to Nyonya, to Malay, to Indian hawker food, Penang will
surprise and delight food lovers!
Many of Penang's streets, busy
thoroughfares during the day, miraculously morph into huge outdoor
eating areas as the sun sets. Cars and buses give way to hawker carts
and chefs that serve up some of the cheapest and most delicious food you
will find on the planet.
Tourists and locals sit side by side at
impromptu dining tables out in the open watching as their meal is
prepared before their eyes. If you still have room for dessert, a
leisurely wander to the other side of the street is usually all it takes
to find what you are looking for.
The architecture is just as
impressive. Throughout the streets of George Town there is a rich
collection of historic buildings in a variety of styles, including
Chinese clan houses, mosques, churches, Chinese and Indian temples and
manymany grand colonial buildings in varying state of repair - the
legacy of Penang's British rule.
Fortunately, as tourists
rediscover the delights of Penang, many of the fabulous buildings,
particularly the old Chinese houses, are being restored to offer both
flashpacker and luxury accommodation options. Where George Town and, in
particular, the Love Lane area, were once the domain of the backpacker,
now there are plenty of upmarket hotels that provide the very best
modern accommodation within the most stunning and authentic historical
settings.
But Penang is even more. It also features brilliant
white beaches with accompanying Western- style resorts on the north of
the island, so you can combine the traditional tropical South-East Asian
holiday with the authentic local experience. It also has some of the
best shopping in Malaysia, either on the street, at night markets or in
modern, air-conditioned shopping centres such as Gurney Plaza.
Before
tourists rediscovered Penang, it was the artists who initially saw its
huge potential. A thriving arts scene has developed in George Town and
is now one of its most alluring features. Artists have made their mark
and their legacy is obvious, either on the many street murals that dot
the landscape or in the many, many galleries that are found in the
backstreets and alleyways of this fascinating city.
Art,
architecture, adventure, beaches, resorts, food, shopping, culture,
temples and night-life, Penang really does have it all and its future is
as bright now as it was 150 years ago. The Pearl of the Orient is being
polished anew and is shining brighter than ever.
GO2 - PENANG
Getting there
Air
Asia, Malaysia Air and Singapore Airlines all fly to Penang, via Kuala
Lumpur or Singapore. Ph Flight Centre on 133 133 or see flightcentre.com.au
Where to stay
Seven Terraces is a newly opened small private
hotel of only 18 suites designed by the award-winning hoteliers Karl
Steinberg and Christopher Ong. (Winners of the 2007 UNESCO Award of
Distinction for heritage conservation).
They have converted a
grand row of seven 19th Century Anglo-Chinese terraces, in one of
Penang's finest and most intact heritage streets, into a romantic,
beautiful and timeless retreat, positioned in the very heart of the
World Heritage Site, next door to the 1810 Goddess of Mercy Temple and
just a few minutes walk from all the major icons.
It successfully captures and celebrates the spirit of this world heritage town and its culture.
With
a generous lap pool, Asian fusion dining room, full bar and exquisitely
furnished reception and public areas, the hotel offers the perfect
spoil and sanctuary but still all within a skip of the living culture
and hawker food for which Penang is so famous.
Bookings at info@seventerraces.com
Muntri Mews is affordable luxury accommodation
for today's flashpacker in the heart of George Town. It is within easy
walking distance to the key heritage landmarks in the city and a
20-minute drive from the beautiful Batu Feringghi beaches on the
island's north.
The hotel is in Muntri Street which has perhaps
the best preserved rows of 19th Straits Chinese architecture in
Malaysia, equivalent to Singapore's Emerald Hill.
The grade 2 listed building was formerly the stables and carriageworks of the street's grandest terraces.
It features lush tropical gardens and a fabulous restaurant.
Bookings at info@muntrimews.com
The Eastern & Oriental Hotel is the
embodiment of both a special time and a special place. For more than a
century, this remarkable hotel - known simply as "The E&O'' to
generations of travellers - has stood as a testament to the grand
elegance. Take a step back and capture the majesty of the British
colonial era.
A laksa hawker stall in Penang. Picture: Supplied
Source: Supplied
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